About me

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I started surfing at an early age in Redondo Beach CA where my friend Tony and I would carry two 35 lb long boards (it took both of us - one in front and behind) to get to the waterline. I am an extreme person in the sense that I have irrational yearnings for activities...

 

1- Surfing in warm water - I lived on Maui and on the islands for several years...

 

2 - Snowboarding... got so into it that I rented a place at my favorite mountain and snowboarded every day for 2 years (seasonally) 10 hours a day.

 

When I get into something I go all the way in. I like extreme cars - Rat Rods and super-cars.

 

I am an obsessive-compulsive creative... I started a global trend in advertising back in 2009 and ever since I have loved Steampunk fashions. (listen to the mp3) I did all the voices and mixing. I am a prolific writer, artist, and designer - 

 

I am also a Surf Age Philosopher and have studied UFOs since I saw one at age 12 living in Hawaii - I saw it lift up from the sea and follow a jumbo jet for a mile and then into space in 3 seconds. I have seen UFOs all my life. 

 

I have been in the entertainment world for 38 years since I was 11 years old I was involved with many famous people and continued throughout my career working with famous people. 

 

My friends in New Zealand always say cheers... 

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Cheers,

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My Obsession

By David

 

      I started surfing at the age of 10 in Playa Del Rey California when my friend Tony Sureuto moved there with his mom. Now, decades later that same ten-year-old still co-pilots my life. I have broken ribs at Pipeline, I’ve swallowed green water pollution at “California Street” and survived three months in bed, I have been in a tube three times on the same wave on Maui and traveled to the destinations I dreamed of surfing. I guess you could say that in my own way I have left my mark in the minds of my friends and peers.

 

I was never the subject of pictorials as some of my friends were and still are (David Miller being one, he is a great artist too). I never cared to be. All I wanted to do was “be there” at the right place at the right time. Simply for one, and only one reason… IMO no one surfs just because it’s fun or good exercise. Surfing is a passion that transcends reason... Just like love. I never went surfing because I wanted to, uh uh, I went because I had to.

 

   This is the pure definition of a true surfer: Overwhelmed with love, must surf. Today as I look back through the years I see how much my life has been affected by my experience surfing. I guess I would describe it as being the exact opposite of being locked in a Siberian Gulag. That actual experience is the closest thing to real freedom you can experience.  All I know is that from the very moment I discovered water I wanted to be in it. From the day that I could crawl it was anything: toilets, sinks, garden hoses, puddles, I mean anything that even smelled like water was a magnet to me.

 

   It's hard to explain, but even as a wee-lad I sensed that water was other-worldly. As the years marched on my obsession grew especially when my folks bought a home with a pool. I think I was about 5 or 6 when we moved in. Good God, I was mesmerized! I probably spent as much time in the pool as I did on land and I am sure my mom considered taking me to a shrink.

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   For those of you that can identify with these ramblings I wonder if you can remember the feeling that you could literally breathe underwater? To this very day, I'm still unsure if I was just lost in my imagination or if in fact I really could somehow recycle my breath and stay under for extended amounts of time. Uummmm, I'm holding on... yes, I still believe I could. Of course, I also thought (in many of my dreams) that I could fly. The jury is still out on that one, but perhaps it was more of a premonition of unimaginable future events i.e.: surfing, skateboarding, snowboarding etc.

 

   Anyway, getting back to my obsession. By the age of 10 the small bodies of water that once satisfied me were becoming boring. This is about the time when we moved to Inglewood California, a mere bus rides distance from the Pacific Ocean. And this was the time when dad bought his first boat: a real honest-to-goodness Chinese San Pan (a.k.a Chinese Junk as in National Geographic style). The procurement of the "Dianne" is what placed me in "nirvana" on and about the sea. Ahhhhh, I can remember the smell of fresh vomit wafting across the bow as mom blew chunks each and every time we were out for a jaunt.

 

   Truly, it is amazing how slightly rough ocean conditions can transmogrify ordinarily pleasant, attractive people into pale, pasty, seething masses of gelatinous yuck. But not me, no sir! I fought my seasickness with every breath. I developed a system that got me past the initial loathing: when the bow went up I would breathe in, when the bow went down, I’d breath out. You get the picture. But, little did I know that I was hyperventilating. I think I was so dizzy that I forgot that I was sea sick. But damn it, I survived!

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   Thus allowing my obsession to grow. I must now digress for a moment and recount my early day of skateboarding. All I can remember is that I was able to pull my first 360 at about the age of 8 on my homemade board constructed out of a board and steel wheels salvaged from a set of roller skates. O.K., then my dad made the ultimate fatal error in judgment. He bought a home two blocks from the beach in Ventura California. And that’s when I really started surfing.

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   From the tender age of 12, upon my first encounter with Pierpont Beach, I was hypnotically drawn into the water and literally stayed there for almost 14 years. It was all I wanted to do. I lived to do it. I was lost unless in seawater. From this point on, well, let me put it this way: It was my obsession. Nine trips to Hawaii, sneaking into Hollister Ranch, sleeping in my car on some side street in Cardiff beach San Diego, waking up at 5 am every morning including weekends to surf Rincon, Oil Piers, River Mouth, PT Mugu, every and any place the waves were breaking, covering every square inch of wall in my room with pictures, building several hundred experimental boards, skateboarding until midnight every night, no time for a girlfriend, etc, etc, etc,. Obsession.

 

   No, seriously, I'm talking obsession. Do you understand? Can you relate? Not like any form of addiction...nothing virtual could satisfy. It had to be actual. We're talking obsession. Palms sweat, heart races, nausea, high, low, adrenaline rush kind of obsession. Mental illness. An illness that I have come to accept as incurable. One that I am sure to have until the final moment of my life. An illness that I dearly love. Now, hold on for a moment! Let me clarify something. Yes, I am obsessed, I admit it. But I'll have you know that I am a functional obsessive. I have a responsible day job in radio and I am able to pay my bills on time.

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   I perform adequately and contribute to society. And, as a result of my move years ago from California to Oregon I am currently limited to about half of my former obsessing. Actually, between early November, (snowboarding season) and late April-mid May depending upon weather conditions.

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   As you can see, I am one who demonstrates that even though I am the victim of “boarding-related obsession” it is possible to live a semi-normal life. So, for all of you who suffer as I do with this most obsessive, yet wonderful affliction of unrequited boarding obsession, I offer this message of hope:  Enjoy!!!

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PEOPLE I SURFED WITH: Pierpont Surfboards, Shortboards, longboards, Mike Mooney (805) 643-4888

Stan Fuji Surfboards, Shortboards, longboards, (805) 985-7122

 

Vector Vehicles Shortboards, Dave Wallace (805) 207-5131

 

William Dennis Surfboards, Shortboards, longboards, Billy, Dennis Ryder (805)-643-1062

 

BONZER - Campbell Brothers Surfboards, Short boards, longboards, sailboards, kneeboards, body boards, tow-in boards, Inventors of the bonzer, first surfboard builders to put 3 fins on a surfboard in 1970, Malcolm Campbell 805.486.2275